MemberApril 29, 2016 at 1:33 am2940
Hi Mason, so the first thing to do is to make sure you teach a good formal recall. Just as anything else, the command structure remains the same. If you have completed the phase 2 recall and you have your timing and command structure down, you should have a smoother transition to the e collar. Please refer to phase 2 video if you need to tighten up your recall skills.
You should start this on a long line or a retractable flexi leash. Just as you would do in phase 2, you would say the dogs name and come. The only difference this time is you would first correct with the remote and then immediately help with the leash and the remote at the same time. The leash is used initially to direct and help the dog when it gets a remote correction. Since leash corrections are directional and remote corrections are not, dogs can get confused and may not necessarily know how to escape the remote correction at first. So like anything else, we teach them. Remember to repete the command with the correction until the moment the dog turns and looks at you. Once the dog even turns to you, end the correction and give lots and lots of motivational praise. If the dog stops mid way you repeat the command with correction until the dog starts coming to you. Again the correction ends and you give LOTS of praise.
When you give a remote correction it is perpetual like the leash pump until the dog does the command. You should continue to hit the nick (button with raised dots) with the same timing you would do any other correction with your phase 2 collar. Once the dog starts to understand what the remote correction means you can fade off the leash help. Make sure you start off easy but then once the dog understands, make sure to use very good distractions. If the dog never gets to mess up and always listens first time, you will not be able to teach the what to do when it does get corrected. The more you practice with increasing distraction the better and more reliable the dog will be. Make it easy at first but the once the dog understands use higher distractions. When we start with remote corections we start off at the lowest level and then slowly increase it as we teach. We like to use the lowest level the dog will respond to. Dont get fixed on the number though just the dogs response. You will learn to gauge it and you will learn that the dog may not always be at the same level depending on the environment, the dogs state of mind and the dogs adrenaline. Sometimes if the adrenaline is going you will be at a much higher level than if the dog was calm and relaxed. A good thing to do initally is to practice your timing with the remote off. This way you will feel more comfortable when you do turn it on.
Now rguarding the perimeter you want your dogs to stay within…you should decide the dividing line that you want to establish and you should start walking the dog on the leash around the the perimeter as much as possible NEVER letting the dog cross over where you do not want them to go. If the dog does try to cross over leash pump back to where it should be. This will take time and you should NOT rush this process. Once you feel you have done enough repitition of this that the walk around the perimeter seems almost routine, you may cut the dog off the leash ONLY if you have completed the above prerequisite of a good formal off leash recall. Once off the leash, if they so much as step on the dividing line you established, correct the dog immediately with the remote. Timing is everything. If you do not do this as soon as the dog hits that line the dog will not make the association you want. You then should call your dog to the middle and give LOTS of love and make everything within those parameters a good experience. Then free your dog up.
Again if the dog doesnt ever get corrected when learning it will not help the later if the dogs needs a correction in an emergency situation. It may then nit know what it is supposed to do. Once you have done all of this with minimal distraction and the dog is fully understanding…start setting the dog up with higher distractions so you can make sure the dog knows what to do when corrected around the perimeter. Make within that perimeter a good place that the dog wants to be in.
Always remember to love and praise your dogs for doing good! 🙂
I hope all that makes some kind of sense. Please let me know and please feel free to ask any questions!