Teresa Stanczak
Forum Replies Created
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Hi and sorry for the delay in reply. I thought your question had been answered and didn’t see your most recent post.
If you are looking for a way to do a phase 2 leash correction for stand:
1) start out with escape conditioning – it will be helpful if you have already completed the Phase 2 climb to teach the command structure.
– Using proper command structure ask your dog to stand using whatever method you have up until now. If they move out of the stand into a sit or a down use a forward leash pump while repeating the Stand command. If your dog does not move back into the stand within 2 seconds, use your hand under the belly to encourage him to stand while simultaneously applying the correction. Once in the standing position, stop all correction and praise your dog. As you see the dog responding more quickly to the leash correction, gradually phase out using your hand under the belly. You can start adding in the “No” when your dog is understanding the leash correction.2)move onto avoidance training once your dog is responding to the correction without the guidance of you hand and is starting to respond to the “No”
Ask your dog to “stand” if not responding correctly the first time you ask or on the “No” then use a forward leash pump while repeating “Stand”.If your are trying to stop forward motion from the stand the technique would differ slightly
hope this helps!
Best,
Teresa -
I would say you are safe putting it away. She has already had a large amount of positive exposure to the crate in the past. If you are not actively carting her, I say reclaim your space 😉
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i’m glad your recovery is going well! Slow and steady..
Airing them out can definitely help as long as he is not bothered by his ears being up- lol
Once the medication has cleared the infection he should be much more comfortable. What kind of meds is he on? Is he on an oral steroid or antihistamine?
As far as food goes, as Mike mentioned corn and wheat are the main culprit. Oat flour, pearled barley and oat fiber are generally ok ( oat fiber is just fiber, as is it the casing of the oats. Some dogs are sensitive to grains in general, and in that case oat flour , barley and oat fiber would not be beneficial. Generally if you have a food allergy or sensitivity it could take 4-6 weeks to see a difference with a diet change.
Some dogs do have seasonal allergies as well.
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You may start seeing other things pop up. Just remember to follow all of the leadership exercise. She will be more likely to have changes in her behavior without solid pack structure in place.
For nail trimming, having her on climb may help. When you are lightly touching her nails during the week are you simulating nail trimming by holding her paw in the same way you would to actually trim? Have you tried smearing peanut butter on a surface so she can lick while you trim one nail?
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Hey Sue,
It might be possible that she was a little “off” after a long road trip. She is also nearing maturity age wise which may be a more likely reason for her change in attitude. Regardless, she did take appropriate measures as far as warning with body language, a growl and then moving away.
How is the rest of your pack structure , ie attention , petting and going out?
As a rule I do not take things away from dogs unless I have a trade of equal or higher value. This is more likely to make an positive impact on the dog than praise. She should feel comfortable that no one is going to take things from her when she is chewing it. Of course when she is done chewing it, stick to pack structure and remove the item from the floor. Remember, if she has something in her possession, she is entitled to keep it. From a dog’s point of view taking things from them is stealing. If you must take something that she has, then using “out” and “leave it” then calling her to you is a better course of action.
Here is what I would recommend:
Give her a marrow bone, and then make a quick training session out of it (only 5-10) repetitions. Walk by her, and toss a high value treat in her direction as you pass. Do not stop as you pass her, bend down or try to trade her for it. After these few repetitions, let her finish chewing her bone without interruption. Your goal will be to get comfortable body language as you approach. She should be looking forward to your approach instead of being cautious about it.
When you are successful at that level then move on to stopping when you get to her, toss treat and then move on.
~T
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Hi Alison! I hope you are recovering well.
Once there is an ear infection cleaning won’t help. He will need medication to make his ears more comfortable. You can try Rich at Home Page he does petsitting and is making his way to vet school.
I don’t know if he could bring Cooper to the vet for you but he can definitely help with treating him at home and brushing him etc.If he can’t help let me know and I will help you figure something out..
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Hello! And kudos to Hugo for being an assistance dog!
Since he is crated daily , how many times a week would you say he pees in there? Does he ever have accidents in the house?
Do you ever leave him alone un-crated? Does he chew/eat whatever bone you leave with him? Is there bedding inside the crate?It’s possible that he is urinating in the crate due to separation anxiety. My suggestion would be to crate him occasionally during the day when you are home. Remove any bedding from crate so that peering in there would have a negative consequence for him.
How is your pack structure with him? Who initiates attention? Is he allowed on furniture?
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Hi!
I just have a few questions to get a better picture.
1) breed of dog and where obtained
2) has this always been her demeanor?
3) is she spayed? If so at what age?
4)when you say she becomes anti-social when you leave how does this compare with her behavior when your home?
Does she come to you for petting or interaction ever? In what ways do you interact now?Also I would definitely recommend doing the climb lesson prior to any phase 2 exercise as it is the bridge and foundation for phase 2
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Hi!
Thanks for your interest in foundation style dog training certification. The only option presently is an 8 week in house certification course. We are currently offering an evening class. If you need housing we have some places to direct you. The course offers hands on training as well as classroom time.
We strive to maintain the value of the certification so that it’s more than just reading some info taking a computer test and paying a fee, like some other certifications. We understand that being away from home for 2 months may not work for all individuals and may have other options available in the future.If you are interested in the course we can send you more info!
Best
Teresa -
Hi and welcome to the forums!
Any change in his exercise routine? Is he neutered and if so at what age? How long Were solid pack structure rules in place before this behavior started?
It’s possible that it has to do with training , but I would think unlikely unless he is searching for ways to get your attention and get some treats.Any aggression toward family members? Your daughter in particular?
I would definitely start doing some muzzle training with him, it is so useful in training and life with these guys.best,
Teresa -
Hi!
I Would not recommend wrestling with him. It can interfere with good pack structure and teach poor bite inhibition ( which is learning how to adjust bite pressure when interacting with you). Substitute tug instead, as you have been doing already.As for playing tug, we should take into account his age. Generally puppies start losing teeth around 4 months. This may be contributing to his chompy bite. What kind of tug are you using? Something soft like. Fleece tug would be best at his age or a gutted French linen or jute tug.
Try moving around while playing tug to help prevent him laying down. Apply back pressure as soon as he bites, do not lift him off his front feet yet since this can break his teeth or cause then to fall out. If you walk around the room while playing it should keep him from laying down.
Best,Teresa -
Hi and welcome!
I don’t find it a problem to switch to using free, especially if you haven’t done extensive training using OK. ( great job on the work you have done so far though 🙂
We use free because it comes up less in everyday conversation, and you will be less likely to release your dog unintentionally.Let us know if you have any more questions as you progress through our system !
Best,
Teresa -
Glad that the flat collar is working well for you. I do prefer Martingale collars to the flat collar because it’s a little easier on the trachea. But on a puppy that young a flat collar would still be ok.
One method that I like for puppies this young that like to lag :
Drop a small piece of treat by the outside of your foot ( left foot if you want pup to learn to walk at your left Side) as you are walking
You should drop a treat at regular intervals such as every step or two,
when pup is following you easily, drop treats at longer intervals ( every 3-4 steps,etc)
Start dropping treats at random intervals so pup can’t predict if it wil take 2 steps or 15 for treat to appear.This in addition to leash manners should set you on a better course.
As far as distance, for a 10 week old puppy I would say 1/2 a mile to be safe. He can get the rest of his exercise playing ball or tug. You must be careful with his joints at a young age.
The reasoning behind short leash walks vs yard play is for a few reasons:
Repetitive forced (ie leashed) pavement walking can overtime lead to joint issues. (it’s a concussive surface and the joints are still developing.Yard play is on a softer surface (generally grass) nd the pup can naturally stop when he is beginning to tire.
As a rule don’t walk your pup to tire him, but use it as an opportunity to socialize him instead.
Tug, yard play and training can be used to wear out some restless spirit instead.
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Hi and welcome to the forums!
Keep reading through the pyramid, it will help you set up the proper relationship between you and your dog, as well as serve as a foundation of information that you will need to implement the training.
I would not recommend using the Koehler method. Lots of harsh correction, which is not necessary to train your dog.
I would recommend following our videos to teach the foundation method of training. You will get high reliability without the need for hArsh correction and without having to rely on food.
As far as where to start with videos, you should start with the phase 1 videos Even if your dog already knows sit down etc. During these videos we teach our dog to respond to the verbal command with no hand signal. We also incorporate a “silent” stay into by using a release word like free.
Since your dog knows a good portion of this you will move through phase 1 quickly.Then move on to phase 2 videos starting with “climb” . work your way through each video in this phase mastering each exercise. Phase 2 is going to increase reliability and move away from food rewards.
Keep us posted on your progress!