Allie Dellosa
Forum Replies Created
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I worked at a grooming facility about 15 years ago and experienced the same thing. We did between 50 and 75 dogs per day. Some of the things I saw were horrific. I also rode for a horse trainer who also had a dog grooming service and it was equally as bad. I think it is difficult to find people who will respect someone else’s dog and someone else’s love for their dog, to a high standard, when turn over is important for making money. Not impossible, but difficult. Many of my clients do their own grooming for this very reason. Thank you for sharing. Great video! Keep recording! What a huge value to be able to offer your clients, transparency and progress!
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Q&A that you might like **********26 PUPPIES littermate syndrome, krate training, starting multiple dogs, motivating multiple puppies, multiple dog heel logistics, leadership basics for pups simplified
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Hey Marina! Congrats on your first client! I have been there and have made it part of my program to have clients do 1-2 weeks worth of leadership homework and phase one “trust building” before our first session, so that things like this are avoided and so that the training process even makes sense to dog. Before this became my policy, we would have sessions where the dog didn’t care that we were there and it just caused frustration between dog and handler. I would suggest helping the owner get her puppy on a feeding schedule that helps with establishing operations. It sounds like you are on track with that, but even on non training days its important to stick to it. Chances are she also has free access to affection and toys, this can also cause these things to become devalued. What breed or type is she? She also, may not know how to follow a food lure, you may need to break that down for her, I have had many dogs come in who have never experienced that presentation and they don’t assume it. Sometimes when dogs are nervous about training in a new place or have not had a lot of exposure, they can shut down pretty quick or resemble “overstimulation”. I like to do things to help them multitask like fishing for chicken (I will find a video) and climb command as it requires physical and mental focus, keeping her on lead to avoid her bailing on you can help too. Here is a great lecture on EO and drive balance. There is also a ton pf useful info in the leadership group! https://dogtraining.world/knowledge-base/balancing-the-drives-5-0/
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Here are a couple videos of a super great activity for dogs that need help coming out of their shell and creating a mind and body connection. You can use anything that holds water, and any meat that sinks. Start shallow and eventually the dog will learn to submerge and use their Vomeronasal organ and “smell” under water, it is amazing how this builds their confidence and creates a quick relationship builder for you and the dog. Jacob (my great dane client) also has a dad with mobility issues and has been a very different type of challenge than my average client. Happy to help, and exchange ideas, as you learn from this too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZUu_R5tK9U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-r1XchBUtTA
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Hi Kim, I agree with Mike and Jared. One thing to consider is that not only do dogs have poor experiences with leashes, and collars, but they learn quickly that once the devices are on them, that they become vulnerable, and under the physical control of whoever is handling the leash, so in addition to doing some counterconditioning with the leash doing some Offleash phase 1 would probably help him relate training and control in a positive manner too. I’m so grateful he has you!
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What does FWIW mean? Art! This is amazing!
Thank you for taking so much time to help me with this. I freaking Love it! Love. Love. Love it!
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Thank you Kimberly! We are gonna use rex specs for Storm, but they didn’t work well for Rogue because her head is very Petite…..we went through a few looking for her. Storm has enough noggin to fill them out though.
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Thank you for taking the time to watch! I want her to feel comfortable and safe. I also think that she is benefiting from the elevated work load…. all this extra stuff seems to expand her mind and settle her nerves. Isn’t she the cutest?!
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Oh, no it was pulled from notes on the various q and a replays, you can search it in the knowledge base
https://dogtraining.world/knowledge-base/qa-26/?asp_highlight=26&p_asid=1
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Mike has examples of training logs and charts that are very helpful for giving clients straight forward directives and keeping track of their progress.
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I have clients feed growing dogs 2xs per day. The dog has 1 chance to approach and eat. If they leave the bowl it gets pulled, if they don’t want to eat at that time, the bowl is pulled until dinner, and NOT prorated. That is repeated until the dog readily eats on a schedule. It should only take a dog between 5-10 min to eat a meal. It’s Important to make sure the amount is appropriate also. I have a 50 pound 1 year old, mildly active, spayed pitty mix eating 3/4 – 1 bakers cup per meal, of a 495 kcal food, and the treats I use are a freeze dried raw dog food. I like to use “bougie” dog food as training treats because the dogs love it and that way, the cookies are adding to the nutrition of the dog. Hope this helps. There is a stream where Mike talks about this too, in detail….I will try to find later and post it here. Honestly, removing her ability to free feed will be a huge help.
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As far as the treats go…..I would find out exactly how much she is feeding and when. I usually have clients pull way back on food during the beginning or treat training, or even have every calorie come out of the treat bag. Whatever the feeding plan is, it should be daily, if the dog controls their food or is entitled to food, it can be very difficult to use it to motivate them. Does the dog finish her meals? Does she eat in one approach, or take a couple trips? Does she have chews and food items left out? Things like this are important to iron out, and it can take time. Controlling food is a beautiful and easy way to practice dominance.
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Leadership is definitely important, to some extent, for all dogs, (temperament, breed, and current behavioral problems…even as minor as entitlement, are factors to consider) taking orders from someone who is not a leader doesn’t make sense. If your client has mobility issues and there is a potential safety risk, this is something to take more seriously as the dog is sexually maturing.
Creating a mind and body connection: Dogs thrive when they are given the opportunity to connect mind and body in problem solving tasks that they can complete. They gain self confidence by overcoming fears and confidence in their handlers by overcoming fear with the encouragement and support of their loved ones.
Giving their brain exercise is so important and can help them expand their minds! It also helps prevent them from developing behavioral side effects related to lack of stimulation, and fear regarding variables in the environment (destructive chewing, obsession with toys, chasing shadows, problems focusing in higher stimulus situations or when excited).
Think of it like this….what is the first thing therapists suggest for people overcoming anxiety or other emotional or physical limitations? They suggest playing a sport, working out, having to think about where your body is in space while engaging with your environment. It makes us exponentially better at handling stress, relationships, generalizing learning and soothing/preventing anxiety (drive balance), coordination, and courage in trying new things, than if we did not do physically and mentally stimulating activities. Doing things like this to prevent “needing” to do them is a great part of a training and relationship building plan ESPECIALLY if the owner has mobility issues and you may be the only source of it.
The Vomeronasal (Jacobson) organ drill is a very primal usage of the dogs talents, and it is the coolest thing to help them build. They push moisture into the organ cavity on the roof of their mouths into their sinuses where they can break down and separate odor. Pet dogs don’t always have the opportunity to do this (other than with urine deposits from other dogs) unless we provide it.
I don’t have a lot of public videos but I do have a ton of “productive play”on my client FB page and you are more than welcome to join!
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This convo was amazing in that it called out the elephants in the room: what is a trained dog? what is harm?
I love utilizing definitive terms because it keeps the narrative accountable. Thank you for posting these.
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I would suggest not allowing dogs to be in a common area where anything of value is available ie: resting places, toys, food, crates etc. this will help prevent conflict and the conversation about those items or group activities. Your Dutchy is at the right age to be noted as potential conflict as well, so it makes sense that he may seem like the cause, we can’t get around Ethology. It would be so cool to get into the leadership group too, great resource!