Jose Moreno
Forum Replies Created
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Hey guys,
As far as remote collars go ive used em all; including the martin collars.
The only brand that I have found to be consistent in quality, output, and consistency have been the dogtra collars. Their customer service leaves a lot to be desired however.
Any feedback or output issues with most collars can usually be attributed to bad placement and/or poor contact with the dog.
Be sure you have the right contact points for your dogs fur length, the collar is placed properly on the sides of the dogs neck (not directly on the trachea), and that the collar is making good skin contact. I find replacing the strap with a bungee strap helps alot.
A good trainer should be able to find the dogs baseline (when the dog first perceives the stim from the collar) pretty quickly and the behavior responses should be very consistent if all the above criteria are met.
A word on brands. Im not affiliated with any one group but I heavily favor dogtra collars over any other collar. And like I said ive used most all collars; dogtra, martin, educator, garmin, sportdog, etc. Only the dogtras gave me consistent results. This is anecdotal of course but it is through many many experiences.
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Hey Maxlee,
Ill chime in here with how to teach the stand.First off remember in foundation style it’s not a leash pop. Rather it is leash pumps. And remember to go through the transition sits and downs before expecting the dog to do a complete sit/down.
As for the stand. Have you taught the stand in phase 1 using positive only? If so how did you do it? Taking your time with a command like “stand” in phase 1 pays off. Once the dog is doing it fluently in phase 1 it shouldnt be to hard to transition to phase 2.
I teach a phase 1 stand from the front of the dog first. Its easier to communicate what you want that way. Give the command “stand” then with a treat press rather quickly into the dogs muzzle. Kind of like your shoving a treat into their mouth, only dont give them the treat until after theyve done the position. Thisll force their back legs to kick out. After some repetition in phase 1, phase 2 is easy.
Give the command. If the dog doesnt stand simply act like your shoving a treat in their mouth only with no treat. If they decide to sit or down simply put your foot under their belly and point your toe up. Thatll force their hind legs to kick out.That is what I consider the correction. I dont really use leash pressure because it puts me in an awkward position, usually leaning over to apply backward pressure which would also force their back legs out. Ill see if i can post a video of my doing it tomorrow. It sounds a little complicated but really its easy.
Happy New Year!
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Hey tracy can I ask what state youre from? I know of a staffy terrier named raisin who is in a similar situation.
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Nice video Mike. Good to observe and watch the technique. That long line had me worried at times though, lol. Ive been taken out by one twice.
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I wouldnt suggest it. Youre still putting stress on the pups joints. It would make it worse to add weight to the walks for a pup. Especially with GSD’s i wouldnt weight them down ever regardless of age; they are very prone to hip dysplasia.
How about a game of tug? Or fetch in the water to get em swimming? Or hikes uphill when hes older?
If youre worried about his energy as a pup, well it is normal for a pup to have tons of energy. Its a matter of managing it as best you can.
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Hi! Welcome to the forum!! You are right! We are all super passionate about dogs and are here to help improve the standards of dog training and communication with dogs.
Im assuming youve gone through the triangle, are applying all the information found there, and that youre in phase 1 with your dog. Remember, obedience is near the top of the triangle and the foundation must be set for your dog to reach his full potential once you arrive at the obedience section.
Assuming that, the way to tell if youre ready to move into phase 2 is:
-Have you gone through all the commands you want to teach and is your dog doing them consistently for a treat? Were not looking for perfection but atleast for the dog to have an understanding of the command. 8/10 times fo repeating a command consistently for a treat is a good number. If my dog is doing the command that consistently then he might be ready to go to phase 2.
-As the last command for phase 1; have you taught the “climb” command and begun teaching the command sequence (see video on “teaching the climb command”)? The “climb” command acts as a springboard into phase 2 and helps the dog understand the concepts of the training and the command sequence.
If your dog has a grasp on all of that and you have an understanding of the command sequence and have begun applying it then youre ready for phase 2 🙂
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Ive seen the implementation of Pack Structure bring about changes such as those described 🙂
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Hmm a little more information might be helpful. Lets follow the triangle and see…
Knowledge: Has the dog bitten any other dogs? Was it just that one time? Are there any other situations when this happens? Do you ever see any body language when hes with the other dogs that might indicate fearful/defensive behaviors or otherwise? More details might help piece together a scenario and a trigger.Health: Any health issues we should know about? Ear infections, tooth infections, etc?
Attitude: Are respect, patience, calm confidence and poise being displayed during training, handling, etc
Golden rules: Timing, motivation, consistency. Have you watched him as he plays with other dogs. Timing is especially important here. If you can catch him in the act you might be able to intervene immediately. With the proper motivation and consistency you might be able to correct this behavior. Assuming hes giving you a sign before he bites.
Pack structure: I noticed this bite took place in your home and after you had left. Are pack structure rules being followed in the house by all members of the household? Toys, beds, food, affection, going out? Are the members of the household in control of all those things and are they initiating walks and play sessions? If he is being assertive when initiating a play session with another dog it could be directly related to pack structure.
Restless spirit: Are dog group sessions his only workout for the day? What his exercise routine like?
Anxiety: Any anxiety issues. Chewing, destructiveness, peeing/pooping? The idea here is to remove as many stressors in the dogs life as possible.
Housebreaking: Accidents in the house?
Obedience: Obedience could help alot in this situation. If you see him getting into a situation you dont like you could recall him, let him reset and then let him back into the group. How far along in the obedience are you?
As you can see a little more details might help us put together a picture of whats triggering him. Troubleshooting everything in the triangle along with a better picture will help us better see whats happening here.
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Let us know how the vet appointment went. Ive been following your post and am curious to know the results of the UTI/Bladder control.
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Hmm still a problem as the olde english bulldogs need a specific fit. I tried the rottweiler fitting and it didnt work, to long. I dont see an option for Bulldogs in their sizing charts.
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Just a general inquiry. I have someone whos dog has learned some bad behaviors due to kids teasing it through the fence in the backyard. Currently the dog gets very defensive within a ten yard threshold. I know the basic desensitization process, I was just wondering how you guys tackle a situation like this. I understand the expectations have to be reasonable. The dog is not living with children, would like it if the dog could tolerate the presence of children nearby, no lunging at kids, etc. Just be able to walk through a playground safely. Im just curious how you guys would begin the desensitization work for this kind of problem.
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Not confusing at all. Very clear actually. Ill cut back on his daily food. I had a feeling that it could have something to do with the + motivation and since that is the easiest to tweak, ill start there. I understand that “no” is a warning (it makes perfect sense) and that is why I decided to ask about the command sequence before jumping to any decisions. Thanks for the responses Teresa and Mike. Once you again very helpful.
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I dont think its the golden rules as my timing, motivation and consistency seem to be on. I think he is just learning that he can wait until the “no” to respond to the command. The timing is on. Im following the 1/2 second rule. The motivation is there; this dog has a low food/toy drive dog but he will return for the reward however only on after ive gotten to the “no” part of the sequence. The consistency is there i always repeat the command sequence and never give a a command I cant back up.
I think hes just learning that negative reinforcement wont begin until after the “no” is given. -
Thank god you said it. I wanted to mention the ghosts but didnt know how to tell her!