Jose Moreno
Forum Replies Created
-
They havent done experiments to see whether or not supplementation helps curb aggression or improve impulse control. I have been supplementing my pups with it lately and I have seen dramatic results. Nothing else has been changed in their diet or in their training regiment either. I am a proponent. I like it. Besides its good for their heart.
-
I think Mike talks about it somewhere on the site but I cant seem to find it right now. Heres some links:
Aggressive dogs may benefit from omega-3 fatty acids | Articles | Veterinarians | Diet & Health | International Omega-3 Learning and Education Consortium for Health and Medicine
http://drbobseiler.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/article_09-08_re.pdf
Aggressive dogs are characterized by low omeg… [Vet Res Commun. 2008] – PubMed – NCBI -
My thoughts….
Number 1: Crate train her and keep her on a potty SCHEDULE. Pattern her poop/pee times in the morning right after waking up, after she eats and before bed. Remember, owning a puppy is like having a baby; youre gonna have to put in the work. Put her on a regular potty schedule. Number 2: If shes free in the house she must be supervised. Otherwise shes in her crate. That way theres no sneaking to her favorite spot behind the couch where she knows youll never find her lil “presents”. Number 3: Once the pup is old enough feedback becomes crucial. If, and only if, you catch her in the act the “dog gods” should rain down environmental corrections in the form of squirt bottles, or a startling noise to stop her in the act. Then you take her outside and praise for peeing outside.
I personally dont like bell training. Many dogs will learn to abuse the bell and start ringing whenever the want to go outside rather than use the bathroom.Good job on the hand feeding. I would advise to do some handling exercises with her as well so she gets used to being handled by ppl.
Jose Moreno
-
I dont think thats the best time to teach her leash manners. Shes excited and reving to go for a run. She should be going on structured walks in low key environments. Structured meaning it is a designated “learning leash manners” walk. Carry some food/treats she finds rewarding and reward her when shes in the right spot. If she starts to pull, stop and remain there until the leash relaxes or shes back in the heel position. Show her that nothing happens if she tries to pull. When youre ready to walk again reward her and start to move forward. Youll be rewarding her by allowing her to walk forward, as long as the leash is relaxed, and rewarding her with a food she really likes. Youll find that shell get much more tired if you force her to slow down then if you just let her run and pull the leash.
Also, very important, does she get excited before the walks? When you go to reach for the leash does she get excited and bot towards the door? Remember to start the walk in a calm manner. -
Martingales are great, and CHEAP!!
Correct me if im wrong mods. Honestly if you just want to manage the leash pulling; ie; you dont care if she knows a basic heel as long as she doesnt pull; then get an ez walk harness or a pinch collar (understand that we DO NOT yank on a pinch collar it is only there to make her uncomfortable if she pulls on the leash). My two cents. -
Well…
Heres what I do to get a new dog to like the crate. Everything that is good happens in the crate for the first few days/weeks. When its food time, they eat in their crate. When its crate time, I stuff a kong full of some raw salmon dog food or give em a beef bone; its important they only get these treats while in their crate so they know that this “food of the gods” only appears when theyre in the crate. Now, the dogs that I crate train run into their crate by themselves when its feeding time and fall asleep in their crate right after their done for an hour or so.
Are you exercising her? It could be kind of tough, especially with pups, to get em to stay in a crate if theyre full of energy. Remember, restless spirit.
Also its important that if you are trying to crate train her not to let her out if shes whining or barking. Otherwise shell think that barking/whining gets her a free ride out of the crate.
Again, just my opinion as a member. Hopefully one of the mods will give us some info. -
My guess would be to start off in a zero distraction environment first; like in the garage or backyard and teach her leash manners there for a while. When she starts to show some fluency with not pulling and manners then move on to teaching her a heel like in the phase 2 video. Make sure she knows whats expected of her first. That would be my opinion
-
Wait im lost. Are you using the kennel for her to sleep in, or as a place to keep her during the day, or both?
-
Sounds great Teresa. Ive already started working distractions from a distance and he seems to be doing well.
-
Its all in how you introduce the bed to her. Introduce the bed the same way you would a brand new crate. Remove the crate and when its bedtime lure her on to the bed with a treat and then praise her while shes on it. Make it more comfortable than the crate she had. Put some extra blankets on it. Once she realizes its her spot to sleep she will love it. Remember its all in how you introduce it to her.
-
I figured it was marker training with a good boy/girl. Just some people out here in california take it so much further; ie; you have to use a short sharp word such as “yes!” otherwise the desired behavior isnt captured, or a clicker, and they use primary and secondary reinforcers, etc.
-
I understand. Thanks for the response. Looking forward to the webinars. The more I read into this site the more new stuff i learn.
-
Hey Mike can I ask why you dont use the extinction/counter conditioning exercise for resource guarding anymore? Im referring to the one you used with rocky, the 1 year old bernese mt mix. In rockys situation how would you handle it differently now? I dont see anything wrong with that exercise and was actually thinking of applying it when i get my next resource guarding dog. Any thoughts?