Davis Tran
Forum Replies Created
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Hi Dave,
Please do provide more information when you find out.
With that said, going from the information you have provided, here are a couple things to consider.
First, with regard to the biting incident around food/items in the dog’s mouth, this is classic resource guarding (a defensive form of aggression).
It is extremely important that this is understood as a normal canine behavior. All Dogs and Wolves have the potential (some more than others) to defend resources that is within their possession which is when the resource is within what we call the “ownership zone”, under the dog’s mouth and between it’s front paws. From an evolutionary perspective, this is how they survive in a social environment, otherwise, if they don’t guard, they would starve to death with other pack members constantly stealing from them.
Resource guarding should not be mistaken for dominance aggression as it has nothing to do with status. Even the most submissive dog or puppies can resource guard (under that specific situation) and be perfectly submissive in all other areas of it’s life. The higher ranking member of the pack will also respect the ownership zone of more submissive dogs and even puppies in most cases as this is within normal canine culture and not a dominance issue or challenge.
Resources can be more than just food, resources can also include things such as toys, water, or anything the dog/wolves value enough to defend.
This would explain the 2 incidents you described of the dog biting over the bowl as well as when someone tried to take the item of his mouth.
The submissive urination is most likely the effect of the dog being corrected for resource guarding. This is one of the reasons why we don’t recommend correcting resource guarding directly. At best, the dog would simply suppress the behavior toward that specific individual addressing the correction, but the risk of the dog guarding against someone else is still very real (such as a child who assumed the dog no longer guards). Urination of course is also another side effect.
As stated, resource guarding have nothing to do with status and dominance. The dog can be perfectly submissive in all areas of life and resource guard only under the specific circumstances that would allow resource guarding according to normal canine culture (when resource is within ownership zone). Correcting for resource guarding can cause extreme confusion for the dog in this case, which can be the reason for extreme urination (often used as a way to appease higher ranking members, in this case, probably used to appease the person giving the correction, or just out of fear).
If you have not already, I highly suggest reading this for more information about different types of aggression: https://dogtraining.world/knowledge-base/classification-canine-aggression-rehab-k9-1/
There is many things that can be done down the road to help resolve and better manage the “issue” such as teaching a formal “out” command, leave it command, a recall command, counter condition the dog, etc .
But the first and most important thing to do is accept, respect, and manage the dog.
There should be no need to take a dog’s food away when he is eating his meal from his bowl in most circumstances.
And for now, if the dog has an item in his mouth, it can also be traded for treats, etc if the item must be taken away.
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With regard to the other 2 incident where the dog bit the person when he was focused on the other dog and grabbed/dragged away. This is probably a redirection bite out of frustration.
The reason for the dog being focused on the other dog (I assume in an aggressive manner) can not yet be explained as we would need more information such as who the other dog is, where this occured, and the situation the dogs were in.
But possible reasons can be barrier frustration or terriorial aggression.
For now, I recommend muzzling the dog on walks to prevent getting bit from redirection.
I would also just start conditioning the dog to a muzzle now in general. This will allow the dog to be worked with in a much safer manner and increase his chance of survival as another bite can be the last straw for him.
I am sure more people can chime in as you provide more information, please keep us posted.
Davis
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I have really enjoyed reading Dogs: A new understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior, and Evolution by Raymond and Lorna Coppinger. It’s a great book if you are into canine ethology.
“The other end of the leash: Why we do what we do around Dogs” by Patricia McConnell is another great read and gives fascinating perspective on how our dogs perceive us and how we can clean up our communication with them.
I second Mike’s recommendation on Turid Rugaas’s book. I have read her book, “On talking terms with dogs: calming signals”. It have changed my entire way of reading dogs and interacting with them, especially with how I use my body language.
I have not read this yet but I have also heard good things about “The evolution of canine social behavior”.
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That is basically how I use my markers with my personal dog. I don’t see any issues with it at all. It’s a simple and clear way to communicate.
For me, “Yes” means definite reward is coming for what you just did at that exact moment. I do not limit this to only food however, I use food, tug, ball, or whatever my dog finds rewarding at the moment.
I use “yes” to teach more complicated behavior or to teach new behavior since it is more precise as a marker sound, allowing me to mark for more subtle things. It’s also nice to have “save it” for only times I will reward, so it means more to my dog when I use it (since I use good girl a lot naturally throughout the day).
“good girl/boy” is also marker I use. Both as a way of saying “keep doing what you are doing” (while he holds a down stay for example) but also as a way of rewarding my dog via affection when I don’t want to reward her with treats/toys/etc but still want to let her know she did a good job.
Not to say that I don’t give treats/toys/ etc to my dog when I use the “good boy/girl” marker. I do. It’s just not 100% of the time. I do mix it in there to make sure my dog’s understanding and association of the word “good boy/girl” remains positive, but I do not “charge” it every single time like I do with the marker “yes”.
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You’re welcome 🙂
You are more than welcome to create a profile for your dog, upload pictures, write training journals, and even upload videos so we can further help you along your training journey if you ever need.
Happy training, see you around!
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Hi Anna,
The Foundation Style training method can be divided up into 3 phases.
Phase 1 is purely positively reinforcement. The purpose is solely to teach the dog in this phase. We only use treats, toys, praise, and other form of rewards in this phase. So you should be fine training your dog in this phase regardless of what equipment you typically use with your dog. Phase 1 must be completed BEFORE you attempt phase 2 training.
https://www.dogtraining.world/video-instruction/phase-1-training-videos/
Phase 2 is when we introduce the concept of consequence to our dog. In this phase we teach our dog how to escape from the correction and how to avoid the corrections altogether. This is where the collar/equipments you use matters. Certain tools makes this phase easier, while others make it harder.
The reason the prong/starmark type collar is ideal for this phase is because it is very “black and white” to the dog as to when they can feel the discomfort applied by the collar and when the discomfort have ceased. These tools also allow us to accomplish creating subtle discomfort with very little effort from us, allowing us to be “softer” with our dog.
However, if you cannot use these tools, other tools can also be used. The concept would remains the same.
For the Harness, instead of using a prong/starmark collar to “pump the leash” as a form of discomfort/correction as we typically do in phase 2 training, you would apply pressure onto the harness to create a noticeable amount of discomfort to your dog so he can see there is a consequence for breaking position (and that when he stay or return to position, he can alleviate that discomfort). The timing is the same.
With the harness as a tool however, there are a few downside to it. First, communication is much less clear compared to the prong/starmark. Sensation wise, it’s not as clear to your dog when he can feel the pressure of the harness and when that discomfort has ceased. The harness was not technically meant for this purpose. Thus, you would end up using much more effort in putting pressure on the harness in order to create a noticeable amount of discomfort your dog would be able to notice.
Secondly, the harness also lack the benefit of direction. With the prong/starmark attached to the leash, we have the benefit of guiding and helping the dog with certain position that can benefit from directional guidance. The down command for example can be helped during a correction with a collar that have a downward directional pull. The harness lacks the ability to give any directional help for the dog.
To be honest, I personally don’t think the harness is an ideal tool to teach your dog in phase 2 at all. I just wanted to answer your question and give you an idea of what it would look like if you do use the harness.
But I can be wrong. Maybe some one on here who have had success with the harness for phase 2 can chime in and help out. Maybe there are certain models of harness that is more beneficial for phase 2 training? Or technique/handling specific for the tool?
Have you considered using a Halti type collar (head halter) instead? I would recommend this over the harness.
It would make a great alternative for dogs that can’t wear collars. It is effective and communicate fairly clearly to the dog when used properly.
If you are interested, we do have videos here to show you how to properly use the head halter for our style of training.
https://www.dogtraining.world/video-instruction/dog-training-videos-with-halti-phase-2/
Hope this helps, feel free to ask any other question.
Davis
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Hi Anna,
The point of the E collar, prong collar, and any other tool (food, toy, halti, etc) for that matter is to TEACH the dog.
So yes, once you have successfully (correctly) taught your dog a behavior/command, they should technically be able to do it without reliance on the tool, assuming you are using the command in an environment with competing motivators (other distractions, such as being in public, people, squirrels, other dogs, food, etc) that your dog can handle and have been trained for already.
With that said, all formally taught behavior, do require a level of maintenance in order to preserve the integrity of the command through out the dog’s life. All behavior must be reinforced one way or the other (other wise, it would lose meaning to your dog). Your dog is either reinforced positively for compliance or corrected for non compliance, either way the behavior must be reinforced in order to maintain it’s integrity. The ideal balance to maintaining a behavior is what we refer to here as the dog training “Trinity” which is a balance of: variable reward schedule (rewarding your dog randomly for complying), continuous punishment schedule(consistently holding your dog accountable for non compliance), and premack principle.
https://www.dogtraining.world/knowledge-base/dog-training-trinity/
This is why a lot of us keep the e collar and prong collar or other tools on our dog even after training. Most of the time they won’t need it to perform the behavior, but having it on allows us to hold them accountable if they choose not to ( it can also be available to us in sudden teaching moments when our dog are in new environment with different competing motivators they have not been exposed to before).
To answer your question more specifically though:
Will the dog revert if you no longer use the e-collar/prong/etc?
Yes and NO.
Yes because If you do not reinforce the behavior, it eventually loses meaning to the dog and they’ll have no reason to do it. Imagine you going to work and never getting a pay check (you are not being positively reinforced). You would lose interest and stop after a while. Or, imagine yourself NEVER getting in trouble for not showing up to work (no punishment/correction), you would eventually see no reason to show up.
Same goes for our dog. If they never get rewarded for their behavior, and/or never get corrected and held accountable for complying, why would they?
This is where the Trinity chart comes in. Though it is definitely ideal to maintain a balance between the 3 areas, if you choose to NOT fulfill one, then you must compensate for it in the other 2 areas in order to maintain the behavior.
Example: if you choose to no longer use the prong/ecollar/etc and decide to never correct your dog for non compliance again, in order to make up for this, you would REALLY need to pump up the quality and quantity of your reward to your dog in order to compensate and maintain his behavior (This is why I said “no” because you CAN maintain a behavior to a certain degree without needing the e collar/prong). Vice versa, if you choose not to ever reward your dog again, then you would need to rely on more frequent and heavier corrections in order to maintain the behavior.
Another helpful concept to think about which is more related to your question is the battery concept. Think of each taught behavior as having a “battery status” of 100%. With each repetition that it is performed WITHOUT it being reinforced, it loses a few percentage. If you never reinforce the command, eventually the battery goes to 0% and the dog don’t do it anymore. However, if you reinforce it, it gets recharged a bit with each reinforcement. So you do have some “in between” time to get away with not being able to always reinforce your dog. The battery can drain a bit, but you can always recharge it later.
SO, in your case, If you make sure your dog is being rewarded and held accountable the day before the test for his obedience or during your warm up session of that day before the event. Then on your CGC test, your “battery” should be “fully charged” and your dog would be fine in performing his/her obedience without the need of the collars.
Plus, don’t forget, I don’t believe there is any rules against praising your dog and telling them they are a good/boy girl during the test. This is also a form of positive reinforcement and you can use it to help reassure your dog during the test to maintain and reinforce the behavior.
Another thing to factor in is each individual dog’s temperament. A highly food/toy motivated dog for example will require much less reinforcement frequency because it’s already meeting you half way and is actively trying to get the reward, even if the chance is slim, his drive will push him to keep doing the behavior and not lose motivation.
On the other hand, a dog with low food/toy drive that just likes to lay around for example, will quit easily if not reinforced frequently. This kind of dog would need either a lot more frequent positive reinforcement or much more frequent corrections and reminders in order to keep him motivated to perform.
I apologize for the lengthy answer. It’s better to answer your question more generally to help others in the future understand as well. But I hope I also answered your specific question and hopefully it made things more clear 🙂
Davis
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I went back to read your first post and missed the part of him barking at anything that he doesn’t like on top of the “way” he have bitten.
From the barking description as well as him being described as “wild and untrained” it sounds like there is a huge imbalance in your relationship.
Please also check out the leadership page
https://www.dogtraining.world/start-self-help/leadership/
Having the correct relationship, leadership, and pack structure goes a long way in changing your dogs behavior.
This also leads me to believe perhaps there is also some dominance aggression going on?
I originally was only concerned and focused on his sound sensitivity making me only think of fear aggression, but after re-reading your post and the way you described how he bites, it sounds to me like it can perhaps be a “correction” bite. Which is not meant to injure, but only correct hence no one has a serious injury. The right to “correct”of course is a trait of dominance.
Hard to say because I cannot see the whole picture, but just wanted to correct myself and throw in that possibility.
Hopefully Mike or someone else can also chime in!
But please do include more information if possible since it’ll give everyone a better picture.
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Hi Maria,
I’m glad to see Kim has already pointed you toward the “clear headed” page. The biggest thing to take away from those videos is to see that regardless of whether your dog is clear headed or not, with proper obedience training (among other things), obedience training should and can override and manage most dogs. This should give you confidence and motivation to obedience train your dog. Please don’t undermine the value of proper obedience training. No, it is not a cure, but it is a necessary form of management (and ALL dog need management on some level, but dogs that bite DEFINITELY need a solid management plan). Additionally, it can also be used as a tool to further help behavior modification plans.
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I would also like to add a few things.
Knowledge: Before we do any training: knowledge, understanding, and respect for who our dog is, is always the foundation of our relationship and goals with them. This is why “canine behavior” is the foundation and first layer in the pyramid of our training system.
It is important to understand that the trait you explained which sounds to me like “excitability”(a trait that makes dog extremely responsive to external stimuli) and “sound sensitivity” (a trait that makes dog show excessive fear when confronted with loud or sharp sound) are inherited traits, meaning they are genetic. This in modern society in the average pet home is usually considered an undesirable trait, but we must understand that from a survival standpoint in wolves and wild dogs, this very trait is what allows them to survive. A dog or wolf that is aware of its surrounding, cautious, and quick to act usually live longer than the one that “takes risk” and ignore it.
Like all behavior, it is always a combination of nature and nurture. We cannot change genetics, but with proper training we can do our best to help him be the best he can be from a nurture(training) stand point. Then we can manage what is left that is genetics. Nurture/training plays a HUGE role in a dog’s behavior, so there is definitely hope for lots of improvement.
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On top of the excitability and sound sensitivity, I think a lot of his “aggression” is fear base.
He seem to be a mix of what we call a “fear biter” which is a dog that feels he has no way out and is “forced” to bite. This would make sense in a shelter environment, where he is already stressed, environment is loud, and he don’t have much space.
He also sound like a case of fear aggression, which is aggression directed at a seemingly “irrational threat”, usually with the mentality of “I’m going to get your before you get me” reasoning.
Question: is he territorial? I ask because you mentioned he bit the workers that came into the living room where he lived. Was their presence the trigger of the bite? Or was it because he was caught off guard with them showing up? Or did they make a loud sound, etc that triggered Navy to bite?
Does he bark or show any aggression to EVERYONE that is not part of the family when they come near your home? or is it only directed at people that make loud sound or move unexpectedly close to him? etc
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Training wise.
First and most important thing is to muzzle train your dog. All dog can benefit from muzzle training, but dogs that have bitten before should definitely be muzzled train for the safety of others as well as themselves.
https://www.dogtraining.world/knowledge-base/train-dog-like-muzzle/
Secondly, I recommend obedience training. We have video instruction that can be found here:
https://www.dogtraining.world/video-instruction/
start with phase 1 and work yourself up from their.
Obedience will help with management.
A dog that is in the down, sit, placed, heel position etc cannot charge and bite someone else. it’s black and white. one or the other. which is why absolute obedience is a good tool of management.
Obedience also help create impulse control. From your description of him being completely “wild and untrained”, it will definitely help him in that department. I believe lack of impulse control also play a major role in his issue which means if we can teach him to control himself better, he’ll have more success at controlling his impulse for aggressive behavior. But it starts with the simple thing. If he can;t control his impulse to break the sit, or down, how can we expect him to have the impulse control to control himself from charging at someone?
lastly, obedience will give you a tool to use for behavior modification exercise.
For example, you can put him in the “place” command while strangers walk by (at a distance at first) meanwhile praising him and giving him high value treats. This can help desensitize him.
This also works with sound. Place him on the “place” command while you play sounds at a low volume first, rewarding him with high value treats (or his meal) to associate sound with something positive. Over time, you slowly increase the volume of sounds to increase his threshold.
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You are more than welcome to create a journal and add text or videos so we can further help you.
I also recommend going through the self help section:
https://www.dogtraining.world/start-self-help/
This will give you more information and help on how to troubleshoot your dog behavior as well as training. There are many layers that need to be addressed before “obedience” such as “leadership” so please check that link out before training. Every layer is dependent on the previous.
There is so much more to add and I’m sure more trainers will happily chime in to give their opinion and advice. Feel free to give us more information, since the more information and detail we have to work with, the better hold we can get of the situation and better help you.
But hopefully I helped you a bit and pointed you toward the right direction.
Keep us updated 🙂
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Hey Dave,
There can be many reason why your dog won’t obey other people/family member.
2 reason that quickly comes to mind is:
1) lack of relationship and/or leadership
2)It’s a “technical” training issue and can be troubleshooted.
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The first reason is simply that your wife/other family member do not have a relationship(or rather correct relationship) with your dog. Being in the same house does not automatically equals relationship, let alone leadership. Your dog needs a reason to obey. Does she feed the dog? exercise the dog? play with the dog? train the dog? And if so, is she in charge of these activities (is she the initiator)?
You can look at the leadership page to help put your wife into a “leader” position, in your dog’s eyes.
https://www.dogtraining.world/start-self-help/leadership/
A great way to “hit 2 birds with one stone” is to have your wife use your dog’s daily food to train him. This way she becomes relevant in his life by becoming his source of food, but at the same time, he will learn to work for her and take direction from her.
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The second reason may be that this can be a “technical issue”.
Either the dog simply does not understand the command, OR he is not motivated enough to comply.
Do your dog truly understand the command you are asking of him? Can he perform those commands from you using ONLY verbal command? Or is he relying on your subtle body language? A lot of people give off subtle body cue to the dog (raising your head or hand a bit when you say “sit” for example) without realizing it. If he is relying on your body language, then it would make sense that he wouldn’t understand your wife since she won’t be giving off the same body language as you.
Even if he understand the verbal command, sometimes when a dog has only been trained by one person, they are only used to that person’s voice. They respond only to a very “specific” sound (your voice in this case), since they haven’t had a chance to generalize it with different tones, accent, and voices.
Remember, our dogs are a different species, they don’t speak english, spanish, chinese, etc. To them, it is all just different sounds. “Sit”, “SIIIITTTTT”, and “SIT!!!” is 3 different commands to them, until they generalize the sound.
Motivation (lack of) can also be a reason, not all dogs obey commands simply to “please” their owners. There needs to be motivation for the dog to obey obedience commands. Reward is a great motivation (phase 1 training). The avoidance of correction is also a great motivation (phase 2-3). Used together, we give our dogs more reasons to obey.
This is another reason I recommend having your wife use your dog’s food to do obedience with him. Start with her simply doing phase 1 OB (very important!!). Then phase 2-3, so he knows that not only will she reward him for compliance, he also learns he MUST obey her.
Video instruction can be found here:
https://www.dogtraining.world/video-instruction/
Hope this helps!
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Hi Robyn,
I am glad to see that you caught early signs of Radar’s change in behavior and that you are being proactive about preventing possible issues from developing down the road. Prevention is always better than fixing!
In order for us to better help you, what exactly do you mean by “his behavior has turned more alpha”? Did anything in particular happened?
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You are definitely on the right track by decreasing your affection for Radar and in teaching him, and your son, about the rules with toys.
If you have not already, I highly encourage you to read the “leadership” page.
https://www.dogtraining.world/start-self-help/leadership/
This will not only help give you and your son a guideline of how to naturally put yourself in the position of leadership, but it will also help you prevent and manage a lot of issues that can potentially arise.
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Just wanted to add a few more things I think may be beneficial to you:
1) Obedience training is a great way to develop a healthy and clear relationship with your dog. It’ll naturally put you in a teaching and leading position and your dog in a following and listening position. Not to mention it’s functional benefit.
We have free instructional videos of phase 1-3 here. (Mike is still in the process of updating the content of some of the videos to reflect the updates in our training system, but it’s relatively minor and these videos are still pretty accurate)
https://www.dogtraining.world/video-instruction/
These videos will also help you prepare Radar for the e collar (phase 3) since you mentioned he is not ready for it yet.
2) You are clearly a very responsible mom and dog owner. I know you have already stated you are teaching your son to not snuggle too much with Radar (which is great!) but, just to be safe, I just want to reemphasize again how important this particular point really is.
Especially with your current situation of Radar in the process of showing more dominant behavior (I am assuming you mean this based on what you said about his behavior being more “alpha”) and your son being very young. A very risky combination if not carefully managed. Dogs, especially one with more dominant personality, can potentially “discipline” a child in situations such as hugging, since this can be seen as dominant body language from their perspective. It is absolutely important to make sure your son understand to respect your dog’s personal space. Part of being a good leader is respecting your dog and their nature.
3) It is great that you are teaching Radar to not walk in front of you. This definitely make the walk more enjoyable and safe. But, it should be noted that a dog walking in front of you have nothing to do with dominance. Alpha wolves in the wild don’t always have to be in front, they can be anywhere physically, what counts is that they are the one controlling the direction and activity of the pack. So this is more of an obedience issue (loose leash walking/heeling) than a dominance issue. You can check our the leash manner and heeling video to help teach your dog to walk nicely on leash.
Sorry for the long reply! Hope this help. Please let us know how things go.
I am sure there are more things to be said, so everyone feel free to chime in on anything that I missed!
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So glad you brought this up Rick! I don’t have an answer but I have also been very interested about this topic as well.
Sorry, I don’t mean to hijack your question, just wanted to add to it since you are bringing up this topic.
I have seen/heard trainers use “easy” during dog-dog socialization. A lot of time it just seem instinctual for someone to just call out “easy!” and of course the dogs respond, maybe due to the distraction and the tone of voice more so than actually understanding the command “easy”. But I also know some people teach it systematically. Some use a harness/leash to reinforce the command by not allowing the dog to continue playing/rough housing until they are calmer while saying “easy”, and some use low level e collar to reinforce the command as well.
Like Rick said, I’m also very interested in knowing the steps in teaching this from start to finish as well as how to reinforce it fairly and effectively so that the dog actually understand the command. Thanks 🙂
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Awesome post Mike!
I am always interested in dog behavior and have seen dogs get in between two dogs to prevent conflict or rough play from escalating but had no idea they also do it with humans. So cool to also see it in a real life intense situation.
I don’t have any knowledge in the protection dog world so one of the question that popped up in my mind is that assuming the dog continue to not get any sort of formal training and this EXACT event is to occur again, now that the dog have successfully protected his owner and attacked a person before, would it cause the dog to “pull the trigger” earlier next time around? Or will he be just as “patient” for lack of better word the next time around?
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Hey Robyn,
Thanks for expanding on Radar’s behavior. It really give us a lot more information to work with. Sorry for the late follow up reply, I wanted to have more time before I could properly respond plus I wanted to talk to Mike a bit about your issue first in order to better answer it.
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The first thing you should understand is his breed and what is normal for his breed. You seem to be headed in the right direction already since as you said “Being part cattle dog..nipping is part of his nature”. I want to expand on this by saying that, being part cattle dog, it is also part of his nature to want to herd and be in control. This would explain him trying to “herd” your car and not let it move. It can also explain the “game” he plays with you when you try to chase him around. If you have ever seen a dog herd, you can see that they are always at the perfect distance of being able to control the cattle yet never within reach for the cattle to touch them. They also always got the cattle in eyesight. Sounds familiar?
Additionally, he is also part Amstaff and bully type breeds tends to be very affectionate and people orientated. This can potentially explain why he is a “velcro dog” to you. Which can also further explain part of his separation issue and why he don’t want you to leave.
Like Sharon said, you have a working type dog with high energy so it’s important that you fulfill his needs. Structured play and games like what Sharon mentioned are great ways to physically and mentally stimulate Radar.
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Second.As you already know, this is also a dominance issue. Being around 1 year old, it is typical for dogs to start showing dominance behavior which in this case is the desire to want to control the pack’s travel decision. In the wild, the alpha wolves are the one that make the decision of the pack’s activity and when/when not to travel.
Plus, as you mentioned with yourneighbor, he seem to need to know everyone that interact with you guys. This is another typical dominant trait to want to know everyone that comes into the pack.
As mentioned in previous replies, you can address this issue by reading and following the “leadership page”.
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The third piece of the puzzle is management. Like Sharon said, do your best to not allow him to be in a situation to run out in the street when you are about to leave the house. Can he be crated? tie down? or put in extra attention to not let him bolt out the house when you are about to leave.
management is key especially while you are teaching him obedience. Once his obedience is reliable, you can then use his obedience to manage these kind of situation.
The recall for example would be absolutely important in this situation. I highly recommend going back to phase 1 recall (even if you started training already, just to refresh him) and working yourself to phase 3 recall (which will include the e collar).
Additionally, I would also suggest you work on the place command and eventually holding long duration place command when inside the house with you. he seems to very attached to you which is not helpful when we are dealing with an issue such as him not wanting you to leave. It will be helpful for him to not follow you everywhere around in the house.
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You are more than welcome to start a journal of him if you have not already. This will give us more information as well as let us know his progress. Keep us updated 🙂