Allie Dellosa
Forum Replies Created
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Same home dog aggression cases are difficult. I always start by explaining canine culture, the dog’s expectations, and temperament (breed etc). While we can’t “make a dog get along with another dog” …..just like I can’t make you like who I like (especially if you feel threatened or their presence is untoward) in your home, we can do an inventory of the handling, leadership, and management and see if there are holes to be filled. Then we can practice the pyramid and at the very least: have outstanding leadership and management, at the very best: we can control the dogs together…but it only works if the whole pyramid is applied. My goal for situations like this is to have the owners understand their dog, know the dog’s limitations and have the dog and the aggression become predictable to them. If it is predictable and they feel in control and, like @Mike said, understand the normalcy of it, a huge weight is lifted. It’s definitely a process. What really helped me was diving into the material and taking full advantage of the q and a’s. I still learn so much diving into the updated 5.0 and being all up in the q and a’s…this would be an awesome case to shadow you on and learn from you!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CRnm7XL0jE
This is a leash sesh with a 2 year old little who had zero leadership and aside from the behavioral issues in the home, was very stressed on leash. Because she is so little the leash issues were ignored until they became loudly obtrusive in correlation with aggressive displays in the home. I have had them stop walks until further notice. This is her first session. Before I began recording we basically gave her cookies just for hanging out on leash….just like Mike showed last night. I will be trying to add more of that to my process as I admittedly rush that part….but I think slowing that part down will be most helpful!!!! I remembered to grab the camera after my coffee kicked in!
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The breakdown on the q and a last night has motivated me to redo my leash manners video into smaller segments that cover the teaching process rather than just showing the end result.
I do not use the name in the way described here because it does not line up with the overall command structure that my clients learn. The name means “listen, a command is coming”. I agree that the name followed by a pump can be confusing if not first followed by a directive, and even cause side effects as it can create unpredictability in expectations.
I teach that the dog is expected to move in the direction of pumps (the leash pumps are directional communication). Otherwise the added expectations vary per client, generally if the handler is standing still the dog should stand or sit next to them. Walking on leash has limitations, and so if the handler wants the dog to behave like they are in a command they should put the dog in a command, heel etc.
As far as verbal “attention getters” kissy noises are good or “name, look”. Some clients use the vibration mode on their ecollars to indicate that the dog should look for them and/or recall.
The ultimate goal for me, is that the dogs and handlers both view the leash as a communicative tool, and that the dog is not darting around in a nervous way or viewing the leash as a source of conflict. Light leash pumps are not motivational enough to really discourage against most competing motivators, so the expectations reflect that. I almost hate calling it leash manners for the dog because so much of it is really about predictable teaching from the handler.
I really like your response here. Very technically thought out, and a great follow up to the stream last night!
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Hey Art! I did chain it, starting with just touching the toy to the final product here. Yes, No matter where I am or she is, this should be the result. She should also hold the item if I am moving (in heel).
Storm was sickly. Her mom was emaciated during her pregnancy. Storm was the runt. Resource guarding she came with. I have experienced puppies from poorly weaned litters, or poorly fed puppies also exhibit this behavior.
She is very sensitive to lots of foods….but she is also chronically pancreatic, so we have to feed her a very specific diet to keep her from having flareups.
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Love your responses and details above (I don’t know how it organizes reply’s lol) Sounds like you are super thoughtful during your intake and setting expectations!!!! I love that you provided a travel solution too!!!
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My question here would be about interruptions, I have found that interrupting or correcting an emotional response can cause safety issues and negative side effects. During consults or intros, I usually sit down with the training pyramid and go “up” it with the client and go over how it relates to their dog. This way we can be sure they have a fair expectation of what the purpose and tactical applications will be. Instead of interrupting or blocking or correcting, I’d start with managing the dogs access in the home, so that they don’t have to block or interrupt or correct behaviors.
I wrote this for a client post on my group page, it is kinda relevant with other dogs…but it in relation to my question about the PDF.
We can’t get around Ethology. Dogs care about their home and they care about their family members. Punishing a dog for barking or being nervous is punishing an emotional response, punishing an emotional response doesn’t teach the dog anything other than stacked negative experiences and can result in subduing the dog. Punishing emotions does not build the dog and handler bond.
A subdued dog is not by definition an obedient dog. A subdued dog cannot have confidence in their handler.
Interruptors or projectiles utilize fear and/ or pain successfully (might work a few times or in a pinch) and cannot be escalated humanely or predictably without severely deviating from LIMA, spray bottles, rocks or penny’s in cans, bonkers, pointing and yelling, are a few examples. If they do “work” it is because they have subdued the animal.
We should not use “game time” as practice time. Athletes don’t perfect their game during the playoffs, they practice all season long and even run scrimmages so that when the heat is turned up they can perform. We need to apply the same understanding for our dogs training and when we set our expectations.
Using command structure ensures the dog can be definitively obedient. Meaning the correction is predictable and not paired with the first command. This will build the dogs confidence in the handler and in their ability to control the outcome of their behavior.
https://dogtraining.world/knowledge-base/command-structure-chart/
Hope this helps
dogtraining.world
Command Structure Chart – DogTraining.World
Command Structure Chart – DogTraining.World
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He has written many dissertations on why it was his life’s mistake. Kind of ironic.
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Help yourself Davida, thanks for your feedback. What video did your sister watch?
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Hey! Thanks for checking this out!!!! I thought I had made that point clear but if it wasn’t noted by you I clearly didn’t. I will go back and add this, thank you!!!!!
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</div><div>Thank you for taking the time to look at this. I usually try to focus the instruction on what the handler needs to learn… The main staple of my process and the program that I offer is handler education and that the dog will reflect accordingly….bbbuuuutttttt after your feedback, I think I will list what the handler should be learning AND what the dog will be learning. Thank you!!</div>