journal-2016-03-20-ara

Taser learning the "climb" under unintentionally distractions of a magpie bird on our roof ...  he loves to chases the birds off our property.

Responses

  1. Awww Tazer! He is so cute! he did so well too!!! 🙂

    Obviously with Tazer and his condition I would just make it fun for him and give him lots of love, dont even stress it with him and just do what you know he enjoys 🙂 He did sooo soo good!! What a good boy and what a great sport he is!! 🙂
    So remember treats are a great tool for luring and teaching when the dog is starting off and learning something new. Once the dog starts to understand what you want from them, start using a variable reward schedule, meaning the dog doesn’t get a treat every time but at random times, then you can start fading off the treats and start replacing the treats with lots of love and affection from you, that will become the reward 🙂

    Their name divides their world. Especially if you have more than one dog that you are working with at the same time. This makes it easier to direct each one individually using their name. It also in general even if you only have one dog gets them to pay attention and is a cue to them that when they hear their name, something new will be happening. Remember to be consistent every time you “free” them up, always say the name once and then free. “Ara free”, “Tazer free” The more constant you are the better for them to start understanding too. Try to remember to point to the climb…you can really exaggerate your body language at this stage…it helps set the dogs up for success. If you have multiple climb boards or are in an area and you need the dog to climb, if you just say “Ara Climb” “Tazer Climb” they wouldn’t really be clear on where you wanted them to climb, pointing and looking, directional cues, to the climb board will help. (same for place)
    Return to the climb occasionally after you’ve done a log stretch or resistance and pet the dogs and show them love for doing good. And lots of love when you free them. Make obedience a great experience for them. A place where they want to work and enjoy working for your affection. That’s one reason we say not to give affection at home when the dog solicits it from us. If they know they will always just get it when they want it and seek it out, it doesn’t mean as much to them. It should always be on your terms when you decided to call the dog over to give affection. We should always “provide” the dog with the affection they need. They just shouldnt be “entitled” to it meaning they come get it in their terms.
    When you start focusing on your hands as reward with affection more, it will also free you up to handle the leash more efficiently too. One thing to work on is one of the most important parts to handling the leash…its the leash slide. When someone goes to grab for the middle of the leash if the dog is moving or if there is a situation where the handler needs to grab a hold quickly….they WILL miss the leash. One way to avoid this and to not miss the leash is with a technique we teach everyone before they can even move on to the rest of the training. Its very important because we work with all kinds of dogs, some are dog aggressive, some are people aggressive, some with barrier frustration, some with no real issues at all, so you can imagine at times there are lunging dogs and their handlers need to be quick…. With your free hand….(looks like your right hand)…practice bringing your right palm directly up under the fist of your left hand…..(you will ALWAYS know where your hand is…you will NOT always know where the leash is) with your right hand directly under your left hand you can now slide directly up the leash having control of it the whole time until you reach closer to the dog. Practicing this side, getting closer to the dog and farther from the dog always using the slide will help maintain good control in many situations. Practice sliding up the leash and down the leash never loosing contact. This is a sure way you wont ever have to fumble with the leash when holding it this way and sliding. You can get even better timed corrections this way if you can master it. 🙂

    You know I write a lot but I hope that helps and I hope it makes sense!! I only pick things apart because you ask for my feedback and I want you to reach the full potential I know you have. Otherwise I think you are doing a GREAT job! You’re doing so well and I can see you are already holding the leash in the perfect “starting position”! Its not easy to retrain ourselves to mechanically do things differently. Next video, i want to see finger lock, and the slide!! 🙂

    Keep up the good work and stay motivated!!

  2. Yes, very good points you pick up…. one of the great advantage of vids… you can see what you are not doing correctly. I definitely need to work more on my ninja handling… a lot of fumbling with the leash happening in this video. So easy to do it when hanging leash onto a door, etc… more things to think about when you are actually doing it with the dog though. I seen to have improve with saying my dogs names when giving the command… need to remember also to do it when freeing… good pick up Judy. Ah, the pointing… I can see this can lead into other areas of training… does this one help the dog with your “watch” command to watching the way you are looking?
    Not to give affection at home when the dog solicits it is such a hard one for me. I know I shouldn’t do it but Ara is a bad one for it as she wander around me trying to catch my attention by looking at my face until I acknowledge her and let her know I have by giving her a quick pat then she will wander away and lay down close by to me. Tazer doesn’t solicits me so I pat him when I feel like it. Ok next session work on slides and finger locks.

  3. Practicing locking the leash and unlocking the leash with a finger lock will help when you need to maintain better control of the dog if it starts pulling…you can do leash manners that way also…have we discussed general leash manners? Will also help when you start heeling..will help with some corrections too. Practice holding the leash in both hands and finger locking with that hand right from the starting position, also practice sliding with the free hand and finger locking and unlocking closer to the dog……so you will basically have a finger lock with both hands at the same time that you can lock and unlock. When we initally start heeling…we start with the leash in the right hand and the dog on our left side being controlled with our left hand then when we transition further along when the dog understand the rules…we transition to just holding the leash in the left hand, this also frees up the right hand to do remote work. So practice with both hands the nest you can.

  4. Practicing locking the leash and unlocking the leash with a finger lock will help when you need to maintain better control of the dog if it starts pulling…you can do leash manners that way also…have we discussed general leash manners? Will also help when you start heeling..will help with some corrections too. Practice holding the leash in both hands and finger locking with that hand right from the starting position, also practice sliding with the free hand and finger locking and unlocking closer to the dog……so you will basically have a finger lock with both hands at the same time that you can lock and unlock. When we initally start heeling…we start with the leash in the right hand and the dog on our left side being controlled with our left hand then when we transition further along when the dog understand the rules…we transition to just holding the leash in the left hand, this also frees up the right hand to do remote work. So practice with both hands the best you can.

  5. When you get the slide and finger lock down i’d like you to start practicing recalls on the 6 foot leash. so slide out to the end of the leash, if she just walks with you naturally have a distraction for her, even if its your husband helping or anything……I want you to say “Ara” come the min she turns her head or starts comming to you back up (this helps then come faster) and praise her immediately… good girl. Once she reaches you you stop backing up. You then keep her by you really close using a finger lock. You will have to use the leash slide to gather the leash as she is coming and be ready to finger lock to keep her near. Come means come to me and stay until I release you. You can then say Ara free…and let her have leash to go do what she wants…you can be excited and entice her out of position with love or treats right now if you want…sometimes I toss a treat initally after i say free to let them know they can break position when they hear free and its ok. If she stops or gets distracted mid way, you simply back up and leash pump towards you until she starts coming again then you praise her and stop correcting, Its that whole escape conditioning again…..then you can incorporate the “no” as with any other command for honest mistakes or for when she is trying. Always remember….dont correct on the know..give her a split sec chance then “command and correction” Let me know if you have questions. And remember only say her name once in the beginning of the command and at the end to free her. Then when you get good at this..you can start doing it with a long lead the same way . Its like doing a little premack principal with her with the come…if she comes and stays by you, you will eventually release her to let her do something she would like doing. Teaching environments should be fairly low or no distraction at first then you can move to avoidance with higher distractions once you see she learns to understand the rules.

  6. Im going to try my best to free up space on my phone this week to try to do a video for you.

    Another good training tip…when you say the dogs name pause for just a moment to make sure the dog isnt anticipating the next command….if the dog breaks after the name you technically havent said the next command yet and should command/correct back into the position it was previously in. Then you can repeat the name, pause a second and give the next command. It gets them to pay attention and not anticipate what you will say next.

  7. I don’t think we have talk about the manners yet? I’m naturally a lefty. I did see a video of Mike doing the permack “come” with two dogs where the dog is allow to go back to play after obeying the command in the playlist of he instruction videos… very good demo but having you writing & explaining it helps you understand what is going on in the video. A very good tip about “when you say the dog name to pause for a moment” – I wouldn’t have thought of doing that without you mentioning it.